This recipe was originally fashioned to “culinarize” an old rooster once retired from his loyal duties on the farm, at least that is according to some renditions of French folklore. Whether this is truly the root of how this recipe comes to us to day or whether there is some other history of intrigue of which I am unaware is really no matter. It is surely one of the most fabulous dishes one can prepare and any guest will be graciously accepting of a meal with such a famous reputation.
I read recently that the percentage of farmed chickens raised in a free-range environment in France far surpasses that of any other country. I am trying to find the article which recited the exact statistics, but based upon my recollection, only about 2% of chickens in the U.S. are raised free-range, while in the U.K. the number increases to about 10%. In France, about 85% of the chickens are raised free-range. I was so astounded by this, I sense these figures will be permanently embedded in my memory.
France has a rich agricultural history. When one considers the span of land outside of the metropolitan areas in France, one is able to see how farming has been an integral aspect of French culture for many centuries. It appears that the French have retained much from their traditional methods and value the process of raising gourmet chickens. Unfortunately, the U.S. chicken market has been severely tainted by poisoning and industrialized methods, which include the in-humane treatment of these creatures so loved for their culinary versatility.
There is a grass-roots organization in France that has contributed to much of the success of what is termed the “pasteurized poultry” movement. This organization began more than 40 years ago and works in cooperation with farmers, consumers and other organizations to help small farmers maintain sustenance. Under the name of one common label, regional producers process their pasture-raised gourmet chickens on the farm, which provides the small and diversified farms with an additional source of income. There is a third-party certification that is essential for farmers to maintain as part of continued incorporation into this program that is entitled, Label Rouge.
There are three other major programs similar to Label Rouge that also exist in France and they are said to complement each other nicely. Appellation D’Orgine Controlee is one such program whose focus is on regionally unique products, such as cheese, wine and some poultry, reserving their brand names and preventing their production outside of the specific region. Two additional labels issued through the European Union specifically emphasize a program that endorses geographical protection of agriculture products. French organic standards are based upon those established by the European Union but are much more strict. Because certification for organic production is costly, many farmers forego the labeling component, though their products are raised by organic methods. Another factor is the competitive pricing from Label Rouge on some product platforms. Lastly is a program entitled the Certificate of Conformity that certifies natural feeding, doesn’t guarantee free-range farming, and does allow medium-growth genetics.
The French have developed an interesting system, one which has been and continues to be studied by other countries seeking to improve and move toward more sustainable and natural farming techniques. There have been studies in the U.S. trialing some of the French methods. The ones I read failed, not due to product or market, but due to failure of the industrialized process to embrace new and diverse concepts in farming.
I do want to recognize that there is a significant movement in the U.S. to integrate more natural means of farming. Many smaller farmers are embracing methods centered on sustainability and utilizing organic methods. The U.S. actually has a larger market place for organically grown agricultural products than does France, however, there is a great threat to that more suitable form of production coming from many powerful forces. One can do their best to support these diversified and local farms by trying to purchase locally and organically whenever possible. Additionally, if one is acquainted with anyone interested in sustainable and gourmet farming, perhaps one could direct them toward the French. They seem to have something unique happening in their region of the world.
Bon appetite!
Coq Au Vin sans Gluten
¼# organic bacon or pancetta, cut into lardons*
2 ½ # organic free-range chicken pieces of choice (bone-in with skin)
¼ c. Cognac
1 t. sea salt (or to taste)
½ t. fresh ground organic pepper (or to taste)
4 fresh organic bay leaves, crumbled
2 large or 5 small sprigs of organic thyme leaves
16 – 20 organic white pearl onions, whole
3 T. organic rice flour, gluten-free
2-4 c. full-bodied red wine
2 T. minced garlic gloves
1 T. organic tomato paste
¾ # organic Chanterelle mushrooms (or seasonal, if not available)
*Lardons are strips cut ¼” x 1 ½ “
In a 5.5 qt. stockpot or casserole, sauté the lardoons on medium until the fat is rendered and they become crispy. Add the chicken pieces, skin side down initially, and season with sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Turn the pieces occasionally to brown both sides evenly. Once achieved, pour in the Cognac. Swirl the pan to mix and allow to it boil slightly, then very carefully set the Cognac aflame. Allow to flame a moment as to burn off the alcohol, then cover the pan to distinguish.
Add the herbs to the chicken, as well as additional sea salt and pepper. Place the pearl onions around the chicken pieces, cover the pot, and rapidly simmer on medium heat for about 10 minutes; turn the pieces on occasion. Sprinkle the rice flour over the chicken, moving things around as to facilitate even distribution of the rice flour. (I recommend using super fine rice flour; it’s designed for baking and works well for this.) It should take only a few moments for the flour to fuse into the mixture. Once it does, cook for a few minutes longer, then add enough wine to nearly engulf the chicken. Incorporate in the tomato paste and stir gently. Cover and reduce heat to medium-low; leave to simmer for at least 30 minutes. If larger chicken pieces are used, 45 minutes may be more appropriate.
Check the doneness of the chicken and the tenderness of the onions. Continue to simmer a bit, as needed, to achieve the appropriate level of cooking. Once this phase of preparation is complete, add the mushrooms. Chanterelles do taste best for this recipe, however, they are only available seasonally. Oyster mushrooms are a reasonable alternative and may be mixed with crimini mushrooms resulting in a wonderful flavor fusion. Allow the mushrooms to simmer for about 5 minutes.
The consistency should be similar to a glaze, thick enough to coat the chicken, but not as to be as thick as gravy. If you need to adjust the thickness, do so. If necessary, boil, down the sauce if it is too thin. Consequently, add more liquid if needed. I found this step to be unnecessary, however. Also ensure that the seasonings are to one’s taste.
Serve with an Organic Mixed Baby Greens Salad or French Brussels Sprouts and a crisp glass of white wine.
Amusez-vous bien!
©Taylor Donovan
source: www.taylorstable.com
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